The Fundamentals of Shoe Formality

Navigating the world of dress shoes can be a daunting task, with an abundance of options ranging from the formal Balmoral oxfords to the more casual moccasins and driving shoes. However, understanding the key factors that determine the formality of a shoe can help you make informed choices and ensure you always look your best.

The Build and Lacing System

The first factor that affects the formality of a shoe is its build. The general rule is that the simpler the design, the more formal the shoe. As you add complexities to the build, the shoe becomes more casual. Additionally, the lacing system plays a crucial role, with closed lacing systems, such as Balmoral oxfords, being more formal than open lacing systems, like bluchers or derbys.

Material and Color

The second factor that influences the formality of a shoe is the material and color. Smooth, polished leathers in dark colors, such as black, dark brown, or oxblood, are considered the most formal. As the colors become lighter, such as medium gray, white, or light gray, the shoes become more casual. Suede, on the other hand, is generally seen as a more casual material.

The Dress Shoe Hierarchy

Now that we've covered the fundamental principles, let's dive into the specific dress shoe styles and how they rank in terms of formality:

1. Plain Balmoral Oxfords in Black

At the top of the formality hierarchy are plain Balmoral oxfords in black. These shoes feature a closed lacing system and a simple, elegant design, making them suitable for the most formal occasions, including black-tie events.

2. Balmoral Oxfords (Not Plain)

Next in line are Balmoral oxfords with additional design elements, such as cap toes or medallion designs. While still formal, these shoes are slightly less so than their plain counterparts, making them a great choice for interviews or formal business attire.

3. Wholecuts

Wholecuts, with their seamless and minimalist design, are considered highly formal. However, they are not traditionally worn with black-tie attire, which is why they rank slightly lower than the plain Balmoral oxfords.

4. Bluchers/Derbys

Bluchers, also known as derbys, feature an open lacing system, which makes them slightly less formal than the closed-laced Balmoral oxfords. However, they are still versatile and can be worn with suits or more casual outfits.

5. Brogues

Brogues, with their intricate perforations and designs, are considered a more casual dress shoe option. They can be worn with casual suits or paired with jeans and other informal attire.

6. Chelsea Boots

Chelsea boots, with their simple and elegant silhouette, can be dressed up or down, making them a versatile choice. While not technically a dress shoe, they can be worn in more formal settings.

7. Monk Straps

Monk straps, with their distinctive buckle closure, add a unique touch to any outfit. They can be worn with casual suits or paired with jeans, but their distinctive design makes them slightly less formal than other dress shoe options.

8. Loafers

Loafers, particularly penny loafers, are considered one of the most versatile dress shoe options. They can be dressed up with a suit or dressed down with jeans, making them a go-to choice for many men.

9. Dress Boots

While not technically a dress shoe, dress boots can be a stylish and practical option. However, due to their casual nature, they should be reserved for more informal settings and not paired with formal suits.

10. Moccasins and Driving Shoes

At the most casual end of the spectrum are moccasins and driving shoes. These lightweight, often suede-based shoes are best suited for casual outfits, such as shorts or jeans.

Putting It All Together

By understanding the factors that determine the formality of a shoe and the hierarchy of dress shoe styles, you can confidently navigate the world of men's footwear and ensure you always make the right choice for any occasion. Remember, the key is to match the formality of your shoes with the overall formality of your attire, and you'll be well on your way to looking your best, from the most formal events to the most casual outings.