Choosing the Right Shoelace for Your Dress Shoe

Shoelaces are an often overlooked element of menswear, but the type of shoelace you use, how you lace your shoes, and how you tie them can have a significant impact on the overall look and feel of your outfit. The narrower and rounder or finer the shoelaces, the more formal they will appear. Sneakers and casual shoes tend to have thicker, wider laces, while dress shoes look best with thinner, round or flat laces.

The Right Shoelace Color

The color of your shoelaces can also greatly influence the formality and cohesiveness of your ensemble. Generally, the closer the color of your shoelace is to that of your shoe, the more formal and unassuming the look will be. Matching brown laces with brown shoes or black laces with black shoes is a safe bet. However, you can also experiment with contrasting colors to add a touch of personality, especially in more casual settings. Just be mindful that bold, vibrant shoelace colors may not be appropriate for conservative office environments.

Types of Lacing

Straight or Bar Lacing

The most traditional and formal lacing method is straight or bar lacing. This technique minimizes any cross-angled lacing in the back, resulting in a clean, streamlined look. There are two main variations:

Classic Straight Lacing

This method aims to keep the lacing as straight as possible, with the laces running parallel to the tongue. It works best for Oxfords with a closed vamp and can also be used on derbies. The laces should be roughly equal in length on both sides, with one side slightly longer to accommodate the odd number of eyelets.

Cross Bar Lacing

This variation incorporates more cross-lacing in the back, which can help accommodate longer laces. It provides more leverage for tightening the shoe, but the visible crossings can detract from the clean aesthetic, especially if there is a V-shaped gap in the tongue.

Cross Lacing

Another popular lacing method is cross lacing, which is traditionally associated with more casual derby shoes. However, some people also use it for Oxfords. The cross lacing creates a flatter, more relaxed look compared to the straight bar lacing.

Types of Knots

The Basic Knot

The basic knot is a quick and easy way to tie your shoes, but it has a tendency to come undone, especially when walking. To keep it more secure, you can try wrapping the long end clockwise around the loop before pulling it through.

The Tennis or Double Knot

The tennis or double knot adds an extra loop on top of the basic knot, making it more secure. However, this can result in a bulky, unattractive knot that is not ideal for dress shoes.

Parisian Knot

The Parisian knot is a great compromise between the basic knot and the tennis knot. It involves creating a half-knot and then wrapping the long end around the loop twice before pulling it through. This results in a tidy, secure knot that stays in place throughout the day.

Berluti Knot

The Berluti knot is considered the most elegant and durable option for dress shoes. It takes a bit more practice to master, but the end result is a centered, extremely secure knot that maintains its 90-degree angle to the long axis of the shoe, even after extensive wear.

By understanding the different lacing techniques and knots, you can elevate the appearance of your dress shoes and create a polished, cohesive look from head to toe. Remember to experiment and find the methods that work best for your personal style and shoe collection.